Kandy · Sri Lanka's hill capital
Things to do in
Kandy
Kandy sits in a bowl of green hills around a lake built by the island's last king. It holds the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, the country's most revered Buddhist shrine, alongside botanical gardens, forest trails and a ring of medieval temples.
- Getting around
- Central Kandy is walkable around the lake. Tuk-tuks reach outlying temples and viewpoints cheaply; agree the fare first or use a metered app. The Colombo to Kandy train takes around 2.5 to 3 hours and the onward Kandy to Ella line is the scenic highlight.
- Where to base
- Staying near the lake or on the hill slopes above it puts the temple, dance shows and restaurants within reach. Hillside guesthouses on Anagarika Dharmapala Mawatha trade a short climb for quiet and views over the city.
- Best time
- December to April is driest. Time a visit to late July or August for the Esala Perahera, the ten-night procession of drummers, dancers and caparisoned elephants, but book accommodation months ahead.
- Don't miss
- Evening puja at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, when drumming opens the inner shrine, is the single experience most visitors remember.
Kandy rewards travellers who slow down and treat the city as a base rather than a checklist.
The last royal capital of the Sinhalese kingdom, Kandy fell to the British in 1815 and now anchors Sri Lanka's central highlands at around 500 metres. Its old core, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, wraps around a man-made lake and the golden-roofed Temple of the Sacred Tooth. Beyond the centre lie the Peradeniya botanical gardens, the Udawattakele forest, hillside Buddha statues and a scatter of 14th-century temples known for their woodcarving. Most sights sit within a short tuk-tuk ride.
- Currency
- The Sri Lankan rupee (LKR); carry cash for day-to-day spending, cards work in hotels and larger shops
- Language
- Sinhala and Tamil are official; English is widely understood in tourism and on signage
- Plug type
- Types D, M and G, 230V; a universal adapter covers the round-pin and UK-style sockets you will meet
- Staying connected
- A cheap tourist SIM from Dialog or Mobitel, bought at the airport, gives plenty of data island-wide
- Getting around
- Trains and buses are very cheap; a car with driver or metered tuk-tuks give the most flexibility
- Cash & cards
- ATMs are common in towns; keep small notes for tuk-tuks, tips, temple donations and rural stalls
- Tipping
- Not obligatory; rounding up or leaving around 10% for good service is appreciated
- Drinking water
- Stick to bottled or filtered water; tap water is not reliably safe to drink
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01 Sacred siteTemple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa)
The lakeside temple houses a tooth relic of the Buddha, brought to the island in the 4th century and long tied to the right to rule. The relic itself is never shown, but during puja the drumming and horanawa pipes signal the opening of the gold-doored inner chamber, and a slow queue files past the casket room. The wider complex holds several museums, a colonnaded audience hall and the old palace grounds. Allow a couple of hours and dress to cover shoulders and knees.
Foreigner ticket around LKR 3,000 (about US$10), includes museums. Open 5:30am to 8pm. Puja 5:30am, 9:30am and 6:30pm. Central, walkable.
Tip. Arrive about 30 minutes before the evening puja at 6:30pm to be near the front when the shrine doors open.
- Festival
Esala Perahera procession
For ten nights in the Esala lunar month, usually late July into August, Kandy stages one of Asia's grandest religious parades. Fire dancers, whip-crackers, Kandyan drummers and dozens of elephants draped in lit fabric carry a replica relic casket through the streets, building from the smaller Kumbal nights to the Randoli climax. Roadside seating is sold along the route, and the event draws large local and international crowds. Outside festival season, the daily cultural dance shows preserve the same drumming and costume traditions in miniature.
Free to watch from the street; paid seats from roughly US$15 upward. Dates set by lunar calendar, late July to August. Book lodging months ahead.
Tip. Book a raised balcony or grandstand seat in advance; standing at street level means limited views behind deep crowds.
- Gardens
Royal Botanical Gardens, Peradeniya
About 6 kilometres southwest of the centre, these 147-acre gardens sit in a loop of the Mahaweli River and date to the Kandyan royal era. Highlights include the Avenue of Royal Palms, a spreading Javan fig, an orchid house and a giant bamboo grove. Paths run for several kilometres, so a full circuit takes three to four hours, though the main avenues can be seen in about 90 minutes. It is a calm, shaded contrast to the busy city and popular with local families at weekends.
Foreigner ticket around LKR 3,540 (about US$12). Open 7:30am to 6pm daily. Around 20 minutes by road from central Kandy.
Tip. Take a tuk-tuk or the local bus from the clock tower; enter early to walk the palm avenues before the midday heat.
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04 Walk and forestKandy Lake and Udawattakele Sanctuary
The last king, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe, ordered the lake dug in 1807, and its shore path makes an easy loop past the temple, the old moat wall and resident birds and monitor lizards. Rising directly behind the temple is Udawattakele, a forest reserve that was once a royal pleasure garden and is now protected woodland laced with trails. Expect purple-faced langurs, giant squirrels and plenty of birdlife on a quiet morning walk. The two together make a gentle half-day close to the centre.
Lake shore free. Udawattakele foreigner ticket around LKR 930 (about US$3), open daytime hours. Both within walking distance of the temple.
Tip. Walk Udawattakele in the early morning for wildlife and cooler air; go in a pair, as the quieter paths are best not walked alone.
- Performance
Kandyan cultural dance show
Several venues near the lake stage a nightly hour of Kandyan and low-country dance, devil masks, drumming and a fire-walking finale in the courtyard. The Kandy Lake Club show is the best known and runs daily at 5pm. It is a compressed, tourist-facing introduction to the Perahera traditions, useful for anyone visiting outside festival season. Performances move quickly through more than a dozen numbers, and photography is generally allowed. Arrive a little early for a central seat, as halls fill close to showtime.
Around LKR 3,500 (about US$12). Daily at 5pm, roughly one hour. Several venues near the lake, all central.
Tip. Sit toward the middle rows for the best angle on the closing fire-walking, which happens outdoors just after the indoor set.
- Temple loop
Three Temples Loop by tuk-tuk
Southwest of the city stand three 14th-century temples that predate Kandy's rise: Embekka Devalaya, famous for its carved wooden pillars of dancers, wrestlers and mythical beasts; Lankatilaka, a rock-set temple mixing Sinhalese and South Indian forms; and Gadaladeniya, a stone temple on a bare granite outcrop. A half-day circuit by tuk-tuk links all three through paddy and village lanes, with short walks between the parking areas and the shrines. The carving at Embekka is the standout and among the finest surviving woodwork on the island.
Around LKR 300 to LKR 350 per temple (about US$1 to US$1.50 each). Open roughly 7am to evening. About 12 to 16km southwest; half a day by tuk-tuk.
Tip. Hire a driver for the full half-day loop rather than paying per leg; the roads between temples are poorly signed.
- Tea and viewpoints
Ceylon Tea Museum and the hills above town
On the Hantana road about 3 kilometres out, the Ceylon Tea Museum occupies a restored 1925 factory, with working machinery, a room on tea pioneer James Taylor and a top-floor tea room with valley views. Pair it with the hilltop sights that ring the city: the 88-foot Bahirawakanda Buddha statue and the nearby Kandy View Point, both looking down over the lake and temple roofs. Together they fill an afternoon and show why Kandy is the gateway to Sri Lanka's tea country.
Tea Museum around LKR 1,200 (about US$4), Tuesday to Sunday 8:30am to 4:30pm, closed Monday. Buddha statue around LKR 300. Short tuk-tuk rides from the centre.
Tip. Time the tea museum for late afternoon light, then head up to Bahirawakanda or the view point for sunset over the lake.
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A first-timer's three days
A relaxed way to fold the essentials into a long weekend, keeping the busiest sights for the cooler ends of the day.
City and sacred core
- Morning walk around Kandy Lake and the old town
- Visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, timing the evening puja
- End with the 5pm Kandyan cultural dance show near the lake
Gardens, forest and views
- Early visit to the Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya
- Afternoon in Udawattakele forest or the Ceylon Tea Museum
- Sunset at Bahirawakanda Buddha statue or Kandy View Point
Temples and elephants
- Tuk-tuk loop to Embekka, Lankatilaka and Gadaladeniya temples
- Optional half-day to Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage or Ambuluwawa Tower
- Catch the scenic afternoon train onward toward Ella or return to Colombo
Insider tips
A few things that make Kandy smoother, and keep the trip easy.
Dress code at temples
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth and the outlying shrines require covered shoulders and knees, and shoes are removed at the entrance. Carry a scarf or sarong, and expect to leave footwear with an attendant for a small fee.
Book festival travel early
During the Esala Perahera in late July or August, rooms and grandstand seats sell out well in advance and prices rise sharply. Reserve accommodation and any seated viewing weeks or months ahead of the dates.
Weigh up Pinnawala honestly
The Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage is popular for its river bathing sessions, but animal-welfare views on captive elephants are mixed. Read up before you go and set your own expectations rather than assuming a rescue-sanctuary experience.
Reserve the Ella train
The onward Kandy to Ella railway is one of the world's great scenic rides and reserved seats sell out days ahead in peak season. Book early, and expect delays measured in hours rather than minutes.
Kandy things to do: FAQ
How many days do you need in Kandy?
Two full days cover the temple, the lake, the botanical gardens and a cultural dance show at an unhurried pace. A third day allows the Three Temples Loop, a hilltop viewpoint or a trip to Pinnawala, and lets you catch the scenic train onward to Ella without rushing the city itself.
When is the Kandy Esala Perahera held?
The Perahera falls in the Esala lunar month, usually late July into August, and runs for about ten nights. Exact dates are set by the lunar calendar and change yearly, so check the current schedule. The final Randoli nights are the grandest, with the largest processions of elephants and dancers.
What should I wear to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth?
Cover your shoulders and knees, and remove shoes and hats before entering. Light, loose clothing suits the climate, and a scarf or sarong is useful for the shrine and other temples. Revealing clothing, including shorts and sleeveless tops, is not permitted inside the complex.
Is the train the best way to reach Kandy?
The train from Colombo to Kandy takes around 2.5 to 3 hours and is comfortable, though the truly scenic stretch is the onward line from Kandy through the hill country to Ella. Buses are faster and more frequent but less relaxed. Reserve train seats ahead in busy months.
Is Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage worth visiting?
Pinnawala lies about 40km west of Kandy and is known for its herd and twice-daily river bathing. It draws large crowds and opinions on the welfare of captive elephants are divided. If you go, arrive for a feeding or bathing time, and consider it a managed attraction rather than a wild encounter.